De-Na-Zin Wilderness

Beyond the Bisti Badlands, another, larger wilderness area stretches for thousands of acres across some of the most desolate land in the state: the De-Na-Zin Wilderness.

I was alone when I visited the Bisti Badlands, except for my dog Cassidy. After seeing my photos from that trip, my spouse Steve was eager to join me in exploring the area I had only glimpsed in September. So a few weeks later, in mid-November of 2006, we returned to see what we could find.

Only about 10,000 people a year visit the Bisti Badlands, not many compared to most parks around the country. But the De-Na-Zin sees only one tenth of that number. While both spaces seem empty, this area truly is. The two areas together cover 45,000 acres, and are contiguous. It is possible to hike from one end to the other, although you'd have to carry quite a lot of water. There are no facilities at all. Horseback riding is permitted, and it seems that would be ideal, if you had ponies rugged enough to forage in this barren terrain.

The De-Na-Zin lies upstream from the Bisti, in the same watershed. To say upstream is deceiving, as there is no water flowing in the dry arroyos. The area was carved from an ancient seabed by the glaciers, thousands of years ago. Here you can see the layers of sedimentary rock that were deposited on the floor of a vast inland sea that covered much of the interior of our continent during the Cretaceous period.

As in the Bisti, there are many petrified logs to be found here. I imagine these may have been species similiar to the cypress of the bayous of Louisiana, adapted to live in shallow water. Many have a similar shape, with the base of the trunk gracefully flared. Although we didn't find any, dinosaur fossils are also sometimes discovered here.

The eastern end of the De-Na-Zin is composed of colorful shales from the Kirtland formation. Further west and lower in elevation, in the Bisti Badlands, the Fruitland Formation is exposed. This is composed of sandstone, mudstone, coal, shale, and silt; a rich combination of rocks which respond in different ways to the persistent touch of wind and rain.

The basin receives only around eight inches of rain a year, and plant and animal life is scarce. A rare seep we chanced upon showed signs of life; bird, deer and coyote tracks in the mud. Such a water hole is a precious resource here. Cassidy, of course, drank her fill.

Bizarre hoodoos dot the trailess landscape. This is a designated wilderness area and very remote. A GPS is recommended, if you don't have a Cassidy.

In researching for this blog entry, I learned that we were not supposed to climb on the geologic features. I didn't see any sign stating this, and so I want to pass this and other restrictions on now.

1. No mountain bike or motorized vehicles.
2. No campfires, no collecting of fossils or petrified wood.
3. No groups of more than eight people.
4. No trespassing on tribal lands.
5. Grazing, scientific research, and commercial guides need permits.

I don't believe that our presence caused any harm to these features. We only climbed on ones that were solid. However, there are hoodoos and other structures which could be damaged that way, so please use good judgement!

Don't climb this one, for example!

Nor these.

I apologize for the smudged photo, but had to show you these formations regardless. Aren't they beautiful? It is an amazing place, and refreshingly devoid of trash, graffiti, and other reminders of "civilization".

For all of the variation in these photos, we were only there for a few hours. It would be wonderful to hike in and spend several days exploring. The light for photography would be much better near dawn and dusk.

Another hoodoo...love that word!

This formation was fascinating.

It turned out to be an enormous petrified log. Note the packrat nest in the end.

Here's another huge log. Steve has a reach of well over six feet, so you can see how big this tree was.

OK, I know now that this was a no-no. Very sorry, won't do it again!

We ran across some rock which evidently had a high iron content, to guess from the rusty coloration.

More wonders.

And more...

A perfect mushroom. This was taken in mid-November, so we were dressed for cold weather. Spring and fall are the best times to visit this area, as summer temperatures can soar to over 100 F, and monsoon rains or snow can make the dirt roads impassable. Hats are a necessity, and layers are a good idea. It's important to be aware of weather conditions.

A last look at some petrified logs before we headed back to town. It is a long way to go for a one-day trip( over three hours each way), but the nice thing about going with Steve is that we have good long conversations in the car. I can't wait to go back and spend a longer time there. We barely touched the fringe of this amazing place!

Little Tesuque Creek in the Mountains

While my brother Russ was still visiting, we wanted to get in another hike, but to somewhere completely different. This time we went up towards the Santa Fe Ski Basin on Hyde Park Road. Beyond the park but before the ski basin we pulled off and walked up a little stream. Above is a photo taken by Russ on his Panasonic DMC-FZ8. I have three more of his shots at the end of this blog entry.

It couldn't be more different from the arid, rocky terrain of our previous hike.

This is one of the wonderful things about Santa Fe. If it gets too hot in the summer, jump in the car and head up into the mountains. The town is perched on the edge of the Sangre de Cristos range, an offshoot of the Rocky Mountains.

The mountains catch more rainfall than do the lower elevations, and support a completely different habitat. They are inhabited by a wide range of wildlife, including black bear, elk, blacktail deer, cougar, coyote, beaver, and many more. All I ever seem to see are squirrels!

I did spot this Bigfoot, spying out the landscape from a high vantage point.

OK, it was just Rusty Reindeer after all.

What a bit of moisture will do.

Remember, we are in the desert in Santa Fe, and this is only about twenty minutes up into the mountains.

The water in Little Tesuque Creek flows bright and clear year round.

This stream flows into Big Tesuque Creek further down the canyon.

Aspens are the pioneer species that first establishes in burned areas. They don't live very long, and act as a "nurse crop" for successive longer lived trees. Here you can see various conifer species beginning to return. This was shot by Russ.

I love this one of Rusty's photos, they way the wood echoes the water's swirling patterns. It is this kind of joyful dance between the elements that brings me back to experience the beauty in Nature again and again!

One more of Russell's photos. I love to sit in a spot like this...I completely lose myself in the mesmerizing flow of water. I go to this area fairly often, and am always renewed by the fresh energy of the forest. Let's hear it for negative ions!

Trail Just South of Ghost Ranch

Warning: This is a particularly long blog! In the late summer of 2007 Steve and I drove home from a visit with my family in California, and brought my brother Russ along for a vacation. I had discovered this trail in Abiquiu (Ab-ee-kyoo) on a drive with the brother of my oldest friend. Peter, who is a photo journalist, was one of my inspirations to start this blog. I was eager to share it with Steve and Russ, and to explore further in the remarkable rockscape.

Drive north on NM 84 past Abiquiu, making the obligatory stop at Bodie's General Store for munchies. Climb the switchbacks above the Rio Chama to the higher mesa of Abiquiu Reservoir. The lake can be a fun stop on a hot day, but for me is a bit too popular, and spoiled by motorboats. When you pass the turn for the reservoir, continue until you see the rust red rock wall pictured above. There is a small turnout just before this formation.

A narrow goat track leads up the face of the cliff opposite. That is the hardest bit of the entire hike. Really, if I don't find it too hard, it is quite doable for most people. The reward for the short steep trek is some wonderful views of the lake, the Pedernal, and much more.

Drawn upwards by the natural flow of the land, you find yourself in a jumble of fractured rock cleaved from the cliffs above. Then, through a notch, you spot your next goal.

This monumental lingam is irresistible; once you spot it you must climb it!

Or at least climb to its base. Here my brother is dwarfed beside this great finger of rock. In the future I will ask him about posting some of his pix of that day here. They are beautiful...I have camera envy.

Me blissing out in a shady wash, cloud gazing.

A storm was blowing in, the clouds roiling and piling up right on top of us.

But we continued upwards, undaunted.

Rusty loves dogs, and Cassidy loves being loved!

We came upon a tree like an embracing mother...

Russ is as much of a shutterbug as I am. We both took a lot of shots of this remarkable juniper. This is an especially good area for weather beaten arboles.

A winding arroyo led us higher into the rocky terrain.

I didn't notice the face until I viewed the downloaded photo.

Such an attractive patch of prickly pear cactus! I took a number of pictures.

I moved in for a close-up...

And wound up with a footful of prickers! Watch out for cactus and yucca while hiking. In a kicking contest they always win.

Steve was waiting for me to catch up in this perfect pose.

Someone lives here...maybe a pack rat.

Russ and Cassidy scrambled as far as the top of this ridge, but Steve and I opted to wait below. I'm sure more beauty waits further in, but that is for another day.

Twisted, weathered wood set against the warm tones of sandstone create new visions of nature's artistry at every turn.

In the later days of the summer monsoon season, wild flowers bloom everywhere in New Mexico. This is my favorite time of year here.

Here you see the Pedernal once again silouetted against the stormy sky. This distinctive mesa was a favorite subject of Georgia O'Keefe, who lived and painted in the vicintity. I have no doubt that she had also journeyed into this obscure but accessible area. By now the boys were getting a bit antsy about the approaching storm...they had hiked together on Mount Baldy before, and been chased down by lightening.

We retraced our steps, but it all seemed new in the completely different light. It had been hot and sunny when we had first started out. Afternoon storms are typical in the monsoon season, and can bring lightening, hammering "male" rains and hail; not something you want to be caught out in!

A yellow Mentzia, one of many lovely and varied xeric natives.

Back to the spire and its attendant jumble of broken boulders.

Russ got ahead of us...we discovered he had taken up residence under a small overhang, and become a yogic master since we'd last seen him!

Steve asked to be accepted as a disciple. As it was beginning to sprinkle, Russ took mercy on us and invited us to join him in his humble shelter. The rain steadily increased, and we knew we'd have to go.

Fortunately we had come prepared, and put on raincoats for the last leg of our descent.

By now the guys were becoming impatient with my slow pace and continual photography, but the rain had turned slickrock to frozen waves and I couldn't stop!

A giant's toes are just visible...reminds me of the rock creature in Hellboy 2.

More living rocks...I just love this kind of magickal place!

Down in the bottom of the gorge, the vegetation reponds to the gathered waters and extra shade. After a hike like this we sometimes have dinner at the Abiquiu Inn, which has slow service but good food and a nice gift shop. About an hour's drive north of Santa Fe, there are many beautiful places to explore off the beaten track in the Abiquiu area, and I plan to cover several of my favorites in future blogs.