Just a half an hour south of Santa Fe is the geologic wonderland known as Tent Rocks. There is a useful site for this at:
which I recommend you visit before going to Tent Rocks, as the rules and fees keep changing.
Before this area was "improved" by the BLM, it was at the top of my list of favorite hikes. Now it is increasingly populated and subject to more and more restrictions. When we first started going there, about fourteen years ago, you paid a small entry fee and hiked. There were no facilities and almost no signage to find the place. Consequently it was often gloriously empty.
But it was too fine to remain undiscovered, I suppose. The last time we hiked there was on Valentine's Day 2009 (this is what Steve and I consider a romantic way to spend the day). Of course it was congested with many visitors, which might've detracted from our enjoyment of the place, except that everyone was in such a great mood!
In the photo above you can see the guardian at the gate; a strong ponderosa which has withstood repeated assaults against its root system by the annual flash floods which shaped the slot canyon above it.
I am always impressed by how this tree thrives in spite of its obvious struggle. Note the nice stand of native hardy manzanita to the right. This is probably arctostaphylos pungens, or point-leaf manzanita; I wish I could get it for my garden...it is beautiful! Together with a yucca these plants form a striking guild.
Here's a close-up of the plant. I believe it is relatively rare in New Mexico; this is the only place I have ever seen it. Like the other manzanitas (also called bearberry, kinnikinnick, or, in Mexico, pinguica) this plant has a myriad of uses. I once used uva-ursi tea to permanently cure a persistant bladder infection which had resisted repeated treatments with sulpha drugs. The experience made me a firm believer in herbal remedies, although I always do thorough research when using something for the first time.
Entering the slot canyon, you can see that Cassidy has submitted to the indignity of being on a leash. At the time of our visit, dogs were allowed as long as they were leashed. However, since visiting the site I linked to in the beginning of this blog, I have learned that at this time dogs are not allowed at all. That's why I advised you to check the site before going there.
So, without your dog, take this fantastic journey with us. Just try not to go on a holiday or weekend!
The rock is composed of volcanic ash, laid down in a series of eruptions 6 to 7 million years ago. The ash has compacted into the soft stone called tufa which is easily eroded into remarkable forms by water and wind.
In addition there are remarkable trees, also worn by exposure to the elements. These are predominantly junipers, with a few gallant ponderosa pines hanging on where they can find sufficient moisture. Pinon pines are also in the area.
Delving deeper into the slot canyon is like spelunking. The walls close in tightly around you, and you find yourself hoping it doesn't rain!
In this tight spot a huge chunk of tufa has fallen into the canyon, nearly blocking the passage. Actually, this is about as difficult as it gets. Any one with reasonable mobility can manage this hike. I took my mother her when she was over eighty!
After several hundred yards the slot opens up at the juncture of two stream beds. Mind you, this is the desert, and these are almost always dry. In the past decade we have suffered prolonged droughts in the area, as is evidenced by the dead trees you can see here.
The trail follows the stream bed uphill, winding through huge servings of soft dip vanilla ice cream. I'll shut up now and let you enjoy the uphill climb in peace. It takes my breath away (in more ways than one!).
When the wind picks up, the narrow canyon can funnel the breeze and turn a zephyr into a big blow. See the dust? This is why cowboys wore kerchiefs. I recommend wearing one as standard New Mexico gear, along with a wide-brimmed hat with a draw string and a water bottle on a strap.
It really was a perfect day, and this in mid-February! You might have noticed a bit of snow in the bottom of the canyon in some of the shots, but it was warm enough to hike in shirt sleeves, and dry enough to sit on the ground. That's just what we did while we enjoyed a lovely picnic lunch.
This is a good example of a volcanic bomb; a lump of molten magma which spewed out and solidified before it could strike the ground. The tufa is peppered with these boulders of various sizes. They protect the soft rock beneath from eroding, which leads to the conical formations. Many have tumbled off their delicate perches.
Looking down from the top, the canyon reveals its overall design.
And in the distance other formations beckon. Indian land surrounds this National Monument, and is not always available for hiking.
Here you can see the slot canyon from above.
In this kind of terrain it is very important to stay back from the edges. On one hike many years ago around the base of Tent rocks our little group came upon the body of a recently deceased grey fox. The poor creature had apparently fallen to its death from the cliffs above. Evolution in action.
A juniper is losing the struggle in this high, harsh location, yet is beautiful in its dying.
Soft ice cream cones? Or is there a more appropriate anatomical reference we could make?
This is the kind of place that inspires my paintings.
On the way down I fantasized that I was flowing like the absent creek.
And out!
Note the cap rocks. I just don't want to be there when they decide to come down!
If you still have some juice left after making the climb to the top, take the cave loop back to the parking area. It's worth it!
Did someone live here? It sure looks a lot like the rooms carved into the cliffs at Bandelier. That will be the subject of another blog, but basically: the Anasazi built multi-storied stone houses up against the cliffs, and dug additional rooms into the soft rock behind them. However, since this cave stands alone, that may not have been the case here. Unless it belonged to a hermit.
Here's another shot of that lovely manzanita. Check out that red bark! You can see why I like it. It has sweet bell-like flowers in the spring and edible berries as well.
A nice stand of grass, which I hesitantly identify as Sorghastrum nutans, or Indian grass. Grasses aren't my strong point, but I happen to have a specimen of this in my own yard. I got it when I worked at Plants of the Southwest, a very special nursery and great resource for native plant material.
My pals. You know Cass really dislikes the leash, but she loves to hike more than anything and is willing to heel if it means she can go along. It is very unfortunate that the BLM has decided to bar dogs from this wonderful place. I imagine it was because someone didn't follow the rule and a loose dog caused an injury to an innocent hiker. In a place like this a fall could be more than serious!
What a remarkable terrain! I'll be back, probably when someone visits and I want to wow them in a short amount of time!
One more thing I must mention. Tent Rocks abounds in Apache Tears. These are transparent droplets of obsidian. A sandy wash like the one shown above is a perfect hunting ground. Of course it is forbidden to collect or remove these little jewels, but very fun to find and enjoy while you are there. Just scatter them back where you found them. It's a great way to occupy children while you recover from the hike. I know this because our daughters were only eight when we first took them here!
This is a must see place if you are in the area for more than just one or two days.
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